Gentleman's Gazette: The Dress Shirt Guide – Making & Hallmarks of a Quality Shirt →

This echoes a lot of what I’ve learned since I became interested in dressing better, and takes it to the next level.  It’s very well-written, too.

9/22/2013 (6:06pm)



Look for Linen Now

While it’s only the middle of April and the weather is still fluctuating between pleasantly warm and miserably wet, you should consider thinking optimistically toward summer’s heat and how to dress for it. 

For my first few professional years I wore regular cotton dress shirts to work — the same ones I wore year-round — and it never occurred to me until last summer that I ought to put an end to it and look for linen dress shirts. 

Derek wrote about linen shirts in the past and where to buy them, but I will say that they’re tougher to find off the rack in exact neck and sleeve sizes — although you can find a decent variety of linen sport shirts off the rack. 

If you’d prefer to not wait for end-of-season sales or your non-average length arms are too short/long for most options, then consider finding a made-to-measure option. And act sooner than later. 

If you’ve used a shirtmaker before and have your measurements dialed in, then turn-around time will be shorter. But if you’re new to the process or using a shirtmaker that requires longer lead time, giving yourself 6-8 weeks to get shirts that fit is what I’d recommend planning. 

I’ve found the cost isn’t much higher than what most retailers would charge. Plus, you’ll get shirts that fit you, the fabrics you want and the details you prefer. But if you wait until summer is already here, you can plan on spending a good amount of it waiting for your shirts to arrive, which isn’t fun. 

For those of you who are worried that linen’s wrinkles will be unsuitable for the office, I’d suggest finding a fabric that blends some cotton into the linen. The shirt will still wear cool, but it’ll resist wrinkling better. 

If you stick to solid colors, most people won’t notice the shirts you’re wearing are linen under your jacket, but you’ll definitely notice you’re not as sweaty. 

One tip I’d give is to add another half inch to your normal sleeve length. As linen wrinkles in the sleeves, the sleeves will ride up. If you want to show some cuff, this extra material helps prevent it. 


I swear, between the three writers, Put This On is probably the most informative and convincing menswear blogs out there.
I might actually go the MTM route soon.


This Just In: TM Lewin Shirts

$32 per shirt @ TM Lewin

White fine twill st. james collar, white OCBD, red/navy gingham casual button-down, blue bengal stirpe button-down, pink bengal stripe button down

I’ve been eying these TM Lewin button-downs for a minute.  I hope they fit well.  Review later.  

TM Lewin never fails to have sales when I’ve blown a good bit of cash on other things.  Dammit.


TM Lewin Sale: 5 for $160 + Free Shipping

This is about as good as comes for TM Lewin.  $32 a shirt.  I just bought my five.  Blue bengal button-down, pink bengal button-down, white oxford button-down, red/navy gingham button-down, white twill St. James.  Trying to get my button-down on. 

Goddammit, of all the times for me to blow my cash for the week… :|


The High Collar

I’ve always liked slightly higher collars. Such collars are made with a taller collar band, longer collar points, and are designed to sit a bit higher on the neck. The result is a quasi-Edwardian look that I think has a bit more panache. This style was popular seven or ten years ago among certain style enthusiasts, but I think it has since lost its cache. In Rome and Naples, however, many well-dressed men seem to still wear them. 

To wear such collars, you need to consider a few things. First, though the collar will always peak out from your jacket a bit more than orthodoxy would advise, you need to make sure its relationship to your neck stays within some range. If the collar is too tall, it can quickly end up looking like a neck brace. As such, if you have a short neck, you should avoid these altogether. Second, I’ve found that the collar points have to be made just right. The points should be slightly longer in order to maintain a balance, and they should be constructed with a softer interfacing. This will allow the more prominent collar to look soft and casual, not stiff or domineering. 

You may also want to consider getting two-buttons on the band. This helps prevent a couple of things. First, because the collar band is quite tall, a single button can act like a hinge and allow the band to rotate, which would then create an awkward opening below the collar. Having a second button helps act as a lock to prevent that rotation. The other problem, which is almost always present on any collar, is that the left side can droop down a bit. This is because the left side of the band goes over the right when its buttoned, so it essentially holds the right side up. When you have only one button, centered from the top to bottom, the left side can fall, so you need a second button to keep things in place. 

Of course, it can be difficult to find this off-the-rack, and even custom makers will have to go through a few iterations before they get something that looks right on you. After all that time and effort, you may find that you don’t like high collars after all. If you do end up liking it, however, I think it can add a really nice detail to a tailored look. 

* Photos taken from Ethan Desu, MostExerent, and The Sartorialist

High collars can be pretty cool.  They’re worth considering.


Eton Shirts December S/S 2012

Eton is right on the money with some solid patterns along with some really interesting shirts.


Eton Shirts March S/S 2012

I’m really interested in the top and bottom right shirts. They’re a bit unusual and I see wearing them as a possibility, but definitely a challenge.